The Autumn/Winter 26-27 season unveiled at Première Vision Paris reflects a world in flux. This year, the trade show’s vision for fabrics and colors resonates strongly with the industry’s evolving priorities: heritage meets hyper-modernity, creativity intertwines with responsibility, and craft merges with technology.
For brands, designers, and trend forecasters, AW 26-27 represents more than just another collection cycle, it offers a glimpse into the shifting codes that will shape how we dress, design, and connect in the years to come.
The color story: Drama meets subtlety
The AW 26-27 color palette captures the tensions of our times, balancing darkness and light, minimalism and expression.
- Deep shadows: Black, near-black, and rich earth tones provide a grounding, protective base.
- Neutral foundations: Desaturated beiges, warm greys, and skin-tone hues create a versatile canvas.
- Punctuating highlights: Icy blues, pale turquoise, and soft metallics introduce lightness and contrast.
This interplay allows brands to build collections that transition seamlessly from austere minimalism to expressive maximalism, adapting to their brand DNA.
Three core themes for a complex future
1. New Dynasties: Power, structure, and shadow
“New Dynasties” explores the dialogue between the weight of tradition and the allure of the future. History isn’t erased, but rather re-engineered. Classic tailoring morphs into sculptural silhouettes, while familiar shapes are twisted into bold, modern forms.
Aesthetic codes:
Dark, dramatic palettes of black, grey, and burgundy color trends are punctuated by sharp metallic accents. Fabrics bring a spectacular yet moody ambiance, with burn-out textures, distressed finishes, and architectural surfaces that introduce imperfection and depth. The overall vibe is neo-gothic and dramatic.
- Black jacquards & fine lace:
Black jacquards and fine lace are now enriched with gold, adding a precious and theatrical edge. According to Heuritech’s data, fine lace is a consistently rising trend among edgy and trendy Gen Z consumers. It is expected to continue growing (+17% in Europe in the next 24 months).
Suppliers: Miguel Alemany, Solstiss, Dentelles André Laude, Malhia Kent, Jules Tournier Since 1865, Ventures
- Reptile skin: Impactful, graphic crocodile and snakeskin effects bring a strange yet refined touch to this aesthetic. In the U.S. women’s market, snakeskin (a medium trend that had briefly faded) is regaining visibility and projected to grow 8% over the next 24 months, particularly among edgy and trendy consumers across all age groups.
Suppliers: Dias Ruivo, Dias Ruivo, Unisea Industries, Inter Leather
- Minimalism meets maximalism: Minimalist lines coexist with dark, maximalist gestures. Smoke and ashy effects enrich prints and textures, balancing quiet tones with theatrical details, sometimes achieved through low chemical impact finishing.
Suppliers: Hosung B&T, Tess Istanbul, Enes Leather, Hyun Bo Tech
- Feathers: Night birds inspire sumptuous, maleficent feather details in unexpected tones such as red, a consistent rising, massive, trend for women in the U.S. expected to grow 3% in the next 12 months, along with khaki and grey, which are steadily gaining traction for women in Europe across all segments and age groups. According to Heuritech’s data, feathers remain a stable trend in the U.S., particularly among edgy consumers aged 16-25 and 26-35.
Suppliers: Bella Tela, QBD Fashion Feathers
2. Ego-Eco: Sustainability meets self-expression
“Ego-Eco” captures fashion’s dual desire for individuality and environmental responsibility. Consumers now seek products that express their identity while aligning with values of care, protection, and sustainability.
Aesthetic codes:
Natural materials take center stage: organic cottons, low-impact wool blends, and biomimicry-inspired fabrics. Soft, tactile finishes, from brushed surfaces and cozy knits to translucent membranes, evoke both physical and emotional comfort. Sustainability and wellness are no longer side notes: eco-innovation is now a fundamental aesthetic driver.
- Nature-inspired prints:
Digital floral motifs take on glitch-like, dreamlike qualities, blurring the line between abstract art and digital landscapes.
Suppliers: Sungmin, Cavalleri
- Luxury sherpa fleece: Sherpa fleeces are elevated with wool, alpaca, and cashmere, offering both coziness and luxury.
Suppliers: Guigou, Casa Da Malha, Mario Cucchetti Tessuti, NGS Malhas
- Colors: Soft earth tones, gentle creams, and desaturated greens reflect natural serenity. According to Heuritech’s data, cream is a consistent rising trend for women in both the U.S. and Europe, projected to continue growing by 7% in 2027.
3. Territories of Expression: The return of craft
In an era of digital saturation, “Territories of Expression” celebrates craftsmanship, heritage, and storytelling. This theme reconnects fashion to its roots while embracing diversity and cultural exchange.
Aesthetic codes:
Fabrics highlight their handmade qualities through visible stitches, artisanal embroideries, and patchwork hybrids. Lace, jacquards, and intricate weaves showcase human skill and cultural narratives.
- Tweeds & pulled-threads: Tweeds feature prominently, with visible pulled threads and textured jacquards. According to Heuritech’s data, tweed is a consistent riser trend in the USA that is expected to grow 4% in the next 24 months and resonates particularly with edgy and trendy consumers from all age groups.
Suppliers: Arnia Textile Fashion Div, MSS Dokuma, Dutel Creation, Malhia Kent
- Checks. From Glasgow to Tokyo: Indigo masculine checks are refreshed with vivid, deep contrasts on woolen bases. Checks in Europe, once a massive trend, are now regaining visibility and are projected to grow by 14% in 2027, remaining relevant across all segments and age groups.
Suppliers: Lanificio, Tekstas Tekstil, Ipekis-Lane Bugella, Zhejiang Saintyear Textile.
- Marled fabrics: Marled, brushed cottons, with the visual richness of wool, offer irregular sophistication in neutral palettes. According to Heuritech’s data, Marled fabrics are projected to grow by 2% in 2027, particularly in Europe among women aged 16-45 to 36-45 across all segments.
Suppliers: Tan Tekstil, Jiangsu Lianfa Textile
Looking ahead: AW 26-27 as a bridge season
AW 26-27 is ultimately a season of connection: between past and future, tradition and innovation, local heritage and global reach.
For brands navigating a fast-changing market, these trends highlight the need for coherence and adaptability. The strongest collections will embrace contrast: bold yet restrained, traditional yet experimental, personal yet universal.
At Heuritech, we will track how these themes and trends translate into real-time consumer demand, using AI to capture early signals across social media. By combining Première Vision’s forward-looking perspective with data-driven insights, brands can not only design for AW 26-27, they can shape the seasons to come.
